Friday 29 June 2007

San Ignacio Mini-San Ana- Casa De Horacio Quiroga


Travelling by public transport along the "Region de la Flores" we saw the town landscape change to agricultural settings. The plantations of yerb a matte, groves of citrus fruits, timber yards and yerb matte factories. Along the route were citrus trees leading us to the San Ana ruins it is not as well signposted as other Misiones sites. Along the route I was becoming quite excited over hawks, cockerels and hens which were viewed along the roadside... When getting off the bus we walked in the wrong direction, it was poorly signposted and we decided that this may be the reason for it not being as well visited as other Misiones ruins. But we would not be disappointed by the tranquility that this World heritage UNESCO exudes-walls without cement..
We walked down red dirt tracks,tranquil lanes peaceful still and humid...lined with rain forest, camellias, hibiscus and large bees with busy collecting nectar alongside butterflies..the rain forest became more prevalent and the indications of tourism became less. The forest began to shade the entrance to the ruins. The graveyard girls-better known as Penny and Ann now went in search of the relics of the past.
A guide took us on tour around the ruins he spoke in castellano (Argentinian) but he commented that his learning of the language was that of a mother of the guarani and an Argentinian father and so it would not be an easy translation. The ruins were of historic importance as it was the iron foundry. The ruins was the location of the film "The Misiones" starring Robert De Niro. The film if no-one has watched it, explains the conflict that the Jesuit people found in South America countries at war Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil..the idapoi trees again set their routes in between the blocks or red sandstone and were seen to be growing out of the top of the buildings the ruins had suffered more from the invasion of trees as the buildings here were built without sand just dry walls.

Within the grounds no roof tops, tropical palms enclosed a museum..Passages of time ecclesiastical ruins, and a graveyard which was the inspiration of a poem "The incredible journey" (submitted for publication). The cemetery held impressive crypts, graves and tombs, their are no new graves since UNESCO took over the Jesuit ruins, the graveyard was divided into a quadrant housing men, women, boys and girls separately.
We viewed irrigation systems which lead to a walled garden where Jesuits grew vegetables and a walled water reservoir. The plaza was covered in a carpet of emerald green grass like plants, red termite mounds, towering cacti as large as oak trees, acquiescence blue skies. The constant call of a variety of birds eagle/hawks, dragonflies, lizards, butterflies and moths were all around us..the indigenous culture influenced by the baroque ruins a time gone by...Soft wind warm breezes emerald green glades. An arboretum within the 16th century setting.. We all agreed this tranquil setting was fully appreciated.
As we returned to the hotel our siesta a necessity- a soft warm breeze was present as we reached San Ignacio. Poetry writing and planning to visit the home of Horacio Qurioca which was in walking distance of the hotel.. Jon added his interpretation of sound, guitar playing and his language crossed all barriers.
So the following day we found the home of a Uruguayan writer Horacio Quiroga he lived at this setting as a farmer and carpenter. He was both an author of children's books, adult horror stories and stories of the supernatural he kept the company of Poe and Kipling.
The setting is beautiful, tranquil a carpet of emerald green grass like plants, butterflies, caterpillars, lizards, budgerigars, and parakeets, bamboo walkways and acquiescence blue skies. Soft wind, a warm breeze through emerald green glades. An arboretum setting.. the farm overlooked the River Piranha below in the valley. It links with the Misiones at San Ignacio as Horacio spent many hours at the Jesuit site. He was an artist and his oil paintings were reminiscent of Van Gough and his woodcuts depicted the reality of his life.
A tragic life, a film is available where his life is depicted in reality love, madness and death...The man married and his first wife committed suicide by cutting her throat, his only son shot himself, his only daughter threw herself from a great height. His second marriage failed and he killed himself by taking cyanide orally...






Later we walked to the village centre and enjoyed an ice cream at the local ice cream parlour we sat sitting watching a sunset. Today I chose sky blue ice and chocolate... We visited a local pool bar "La Previa", on the way back to the hotel, we played table football. Girls versus the boy!! we won on an aggregation of points over three games.

Later Jon was discussing the book I had lent him "The Boy in the striped pyjamas" he commented how the introduction of the author detracted from the story, mainly because it was suspending disbelief, Jon was listening to the voice of an Irish man relating to the life of a German boy. Penny was out of earshot she still has to read the book.

A debate on the prices of Walkers crisps followed whilst we walked back to the hotel... How come they are so cheap?? Tonight we did not visit the Medina Cafe (previously known as the Kiosk).

Our last day we ate at the Medina cafe we saw some beautiful Shetland ponies and we started to plan the journey back to Buenos Aires moving away from the peace and tranquility of Misiones to fast boulevards, parks, museums, theatres, exploring the cultures.


Further information:-

The title of a film The Mission-this film was filmed on location at San Ana
Release Date:31 October 1986 (USA) Genre:drama and war


Plot Outline:18th century Spanish Jesuits try to protect a remote South American Indian tribe in danger of falling under the rule of pro-slavery Portugal.

Awards:Won Oscar. Another 12 wins & 21 nominations Robert De Niro... Jesuit
Reflecting back over our days in Misiones has increased my awareness of the literary skills of the Latin American writers.


I start to read the Picador book of Latin American Stories where I focus on the works of Jorge Luis Borges and others.


The journey to Buenos Aires was an overnight Barriloche bus excellent with 1980`s video music, champagne, beef casserole, and breakfast.

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